Safety First: Ensure workspace is free of fire, electrical and other safety hazards. Be aware of all safety issues when cutting materials with a laser. Always have a fire extinguisher on hand
Power on the laser and all of its components.
Ensure that: - The laser is powered and the boot up cycle begins on the screen. - The cooling system is connected properly and water is flowing through the tube. - The air compressor is powered and exhausting air to the laser head. - The exhaust system is on and vented into a safe location.
Connect to RetinaEngrave 2.0 software using your machine’s touch screen to copy the software IP address into your favorite browser. The Wired IP address is displayed at the bottom of your touch screen.
Import your design and adjust power and speed settings. Double check settings including the number of passes and cut order.
Insert material into the laser bed. Use the focus tool to adjust to the top of the material. Focusing should be done each time a new material is introduced.
Use the “Perimeter” function to ensure that the file will fit within the cutting area. Adjust accordingly.
Run the job file. Do not leave a job running unattended.
CUT
Import the included files and cut all the pieces from their respective materials. This file contains vector cuts, vector markings, and rasters.
First we will want to start on stacking and glueing the pieces we need to.
Remember you can use any ⅛’ material for this project.We mixed and matched from scrap material.
These too will need to be stacked and glued.
The last piece to be stacked and glued together is the handle.
Now place the HIGH VOLTAGE engraved piece on top of the main backing but do not glue this in place. Simply line up the center cut out rectangles.
Then you will want to glue the doubled up rounded topside brackets into place. Make sure that the on and off sides are both facing the same direction.
Carefully glue the side gear rails on either side. Make sure that each side is even before allowing glue to set.
Time to cut some dowels. Four 1 inch dowels will be needed.
Once we have the dowels we can start with the bottom gears.
Set the dowel center so that the the end cap nuts can be glued in place. The gears themselves should be glued to the dowel when they are in the proper position.
We can move to the top dowel now.
The top dowel will have the geared arm glued to the dowel and capped with the nut. These should be glued in place well. Leave just a little bit of the dowel sticking out on the outer side. This whole process should be repeated on the other side before moving on.
Now that you have both sides done you will want to glue the handle in place along with the arrow indicator. Before Gluing make sure that both the handle and the arrow are both sticking straight up while the sliding gear mechanism is straight and even.
The last assembly set is to glue the square cut out to the bottom of the main backplate.
We really frankensteined this together with our scrap material. So now it’s time to paint it.
We painted the switch plate with a Hammer metallic paint to give it that distressed metal look.
Simply remove your old switch plate and mount the new one over top. We used double sided sticky tape to mount it temporarily. But you could easily drill this to the wall on each corner to make this a permanent fixture.
Difficulty:★★★
Minimum Requirements: 40W
Raw Materials:Any 1/8’’ Material, 1/4” Dowel, Glue